Instructions

• If you have two large pots, use one for the rice and one for the onions/chicken to speed the process. If you have only one large pot, cook the rice first, drain and set aside, then make the onions and chicken in that same pot.
• Marinate the chicken: In a large bowl combine 1/2 cup plain yogurt, 2 tablespoons lemon juice, 1 tablespoon neutral oil, 1½ tablespoons freshly grated ginger, 1½ tablespoons minced garlic, 1 tablespoon paprika, 1 tablespoon garam marsala, 1½ teaspoons salt, 1½ teaspoons ground coriander, 1½ teaspoons ground cumin, 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric, and 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper. Add 1 3/4 lbs (28 oz) bone-in chicken thighs (skin removed) and turn to coat completely. Refrigerate to marinate 2 to 24 hours. Remove from fridge and bring to room temperature for 30 minutes before cooking.
• Rinse and soak the rice: Rinse 2 cups uncooked long-grain basmati rice under cold water until the water mostly runs clear. Soak the rinsed rice in a bowl of water for 30 minutes, then drain in a fine-mesh sieve.
• Make the crispy onions: While the rice soaks, heat a large Dutch oven over medium heat. Add 1/2 cup high smoke point oil and 4 tablespoons ghee. Add 2 yellow onions (halved and thinly sliced) and shallow-fry, stirring often, until the onions are golden brown and beginning to crisp, about 20 minutes. Transfer the onions with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain. Do not wipe out the pan; reserve the oil/ghee in the pan for the chicken.
• Toast whole spices for the rice: In a separate large stock pot or Dutch oven (the pot you’ll par-boil the rice in), heat over medium-high and add 8 cloves, 4 green cardamom pods, 1 star anise, 1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds, and 1 3-inch cinnamon stick. Toast for 1–2 minutes until fragrant.
• Par-boil the rice: Add about 7 cups water to the toasted spices and bring to a roaring boil. Add 1½ tablespoons salt and 4 dried bay leaves. Add the drained rice and return to a roaring boil; boil for 3–4 minutes only, until the rice is partially cooked but still firm in the center. Drain immediately in a fine-mesh sieve, leaving the toasted whole spices in the pot. Set the par-boiled rice aside.
• Steep the saffron: When you are ready to assemble, add 1 teaspoon saffron threads to 2 tablespoons warm milk and let steep for about 10 minutes.
• Brown the chicken: In the pan used for the onions, drain all but 2 tablespoons of the oil/ghee left from frying the onions. Heat over medium-high. Add the marinated chicken with any remaining marinade and brown for 8–10 minutes, turning halfway through. The chicken should be browned but does not need to be fully cooked through.
• Layer the biryani: Remove (or leave) chicken pieces in the pan and spread them evenly. Scatter half of the crispy onions over the chicken, then sprinkle 1/4 cup chopped cilantro (measured after chopping) and 2 tablespoons chopped mint leaves. Spread the par-boiled rice evenly over the chicken and herbs. Drizzle the saffron milk over the rice and then drizzle 1/3 cup ghee (melted) evenly over the top. Reserve the remaining crispy onions for garnish.
• Steam (dum) the biryani: Reduce heat to low, cover the pot tightly with a lid, and cook for 15–20 minutes, until the rice is fully cooked but not mushy. Remove from heat and let rest, covered, for 10 minutes.
• Serve: Gently fluff the rice to expose the layers. Garnish with the remaining crispy onions and additional chopped cilantro and mint if you like. Serve hot with raita or plain yogurt.