Instructions

• If you have two large pots, use one for the onions/chicken and one for the rice to speed the process. If you have only one large pot, cook the rice first and set it aside while you make the onions and chicken.
• Marinate the chicken: In a large bowl combine 1/2 cup plain yogurt, 2 tablespoons lemon juice, 1 tablespoon neutral oil, 1½ tablespoons freshly grated ginger, 1½ tablespoons minced garlic, 1 tablespoon paprika, 1 tablespoon garam masala, 1½ teaspoons salt, 1½ teaspoons ground coriander, 1½ teaspoons ground cumin, 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric, and 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper. Add 1 3/4 lbs bone-in chicken thighs (skin removed) and turn to coat. Refrigerate 2–24 hours. Remove from fridge and bring to room temperature for 30 minutes before cooking.
• Rinse and soak the rice: Rinse 2 cups long-grain basmati under cold water until the water mostly runs clear. Soak the rinsed rice in a bowl of water for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, drain the rice in a fine-mesh sieve and set aside.
• Make the crispy onions: In a large Dutch oven over medium heat add 1/2 cup high-smoke-point oil and 4 tablespoons ghee. Add 2 yellow onions (halved and thinly sliced). Shallow-fry, stirring often, until the onions are golden brown and beginning to crisp, about 18–22 minutes. Transfer the onions to paper towels to drain. Do not wipe out the pot; reserve the cooking fat in the pot (you will remove most of it before cooking the chicken).
• Toast the whole spices for the rice: In a separate large stockpot (this is the pot you will cook the rice in) heat over medium-high heat. Add 8 cloves, 4 green cardamom pods, 1 star anise, 1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds, and 1 3-inch cinnamon stick. Toast the whole spices 1–2 minutes, stirring, until fragrant.
• Par-boil the rice with the toasted spices: To the toasted spices pot add about 7 cups water and bring to a rolling boil. Add 1½ tablespoons salt and 4 dried bay leaves. Add the drained rice and return to a rolling boil. Boil the rice for 3–4 minutes (no more) — the grains should be partially cooked and still firm in the center. Immediately drain the rice into a fine-mesh sieve and discard the cooking liquid and bay leaves. Set the partially cooked rice aside.
• Soak saffron: When you are ready to assemble, add 1 teaspoon saffron threads to 2 tablespoons warm milk and let soak for about 10 minutes.
• Cook the chicken in the onion pot: In the pot that held the onions, drain all but 2 tablespoons of the oil/ghee and heat over medium-high. Add the marinated chicken (with any remaining marinade) and cook, turning halfway, about 8–10 minutes until the chicken is browned on the outside but not fully cooked through.
• Layer the biryani: Remove the pot from the heat. Scatter half of the crispy onions over the chicken, then sprinkle half of the 1/4 cup chopped cilantro and half of the 2 tablespoons chopped mint over the onions. Evenly spread the drained, partially cooked rice over the chicken and herbs. Drizzle the saffron-infused milk over the rice and pour 1/3 cup melted ghee evenly over the top.
• Steam (dum) the layered biryani: Cover the pot tightly with a lid. Cook on the lowest heat setting for 15–20 minutes, until the rice is fully cooked but not mushy. Remove from heat and let rest, covered, for 10 minutes.
• Garnish and serve: Sprinkle the remaining crispy onions, the remaining chopped cilantro, and remaining chopped mint over the biryani. Serve hot, scooping through the layers so each serving gets chicken, rice, and onions. Serve with raita or plain yogurt on the side.